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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there,

I am new to this forum thing... i am working on a 1982 honda gl500 silverwing. The bike was running and starting fine a few days ago. The owner melted the battery (due to a loose neg connection) and now with new battery there is no spark in either of the plugs. Not sure if this is related. All the other electronics work, the bike will turn over just not getting any spark. I replaced the plugs, checked the kill switch with multimeter,looked for loose connections and checked grounds. I replaced the starter solenoid 3 months ago with one that uses a bladed fuse. what do i do next?! could it be the ignition coils or modules? or is it something simple that i am missing? Any help is greatly appreciated!
 

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Do u have FSM

If not down in sig follow the link I get everything all addendum and burn to disk.

Check using the wiring diagram for power to coils on load side of plugs /connecters.

If there if all is ok find ground circuit the whole ignition system will fail with a bad ground

there is 1 ground for the whole system if those are good.

Find the no start flow chart obviously concentrate on ignition.

More than 1/2 the time a Honda with TI has no spark it is usually switch fuse or ground.

The system is pretty solid and a no spark at all is usually an easy fix.

After you try the basics then go on to more complicated stuff.

As 1 great shop teacher said K.I.S.S :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do u have FSM

If not down in sig follow the link I get everything all addendum and burn to disk.

Check using the wiring diagram for power to coils on load side of plugs /connecters.

If there if all is ok find ground circuit the whole ignition system will fail with a bad ground

there is 1 ground for the whole system if those are good.

Find the no start flow chart obviously concentrate on ignition.

More than 1/2 the time a Honda with TI has no spark it is usually switch fuse or ground.

The system is pretty solid and a no spark at all is usually an easy fix.

After you try the basics then go on to more complicated stuff.

As 1 great shop teacher said K.I.S.S :cool:


awesome thanks for the help... the ground and all the fuses in main fuse box and the main fuse are all good. I checked the ignition coils with the multimeter and it seems as if the secondary coil is not functioning. are there any other fuses on this bike i should check before replacing the coils?

thanks
 

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When you say not functioning the primary is getting power an when you collapse

the field there is no spark.

Or are the ohm readings just way out of spec.?
 

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????? Kill switch ?????????????????

I'm sitting here inside even though there was a plan to go riding today.

The humidity is up(california up not indiana up)

So the swamp cooler is barely able to keep it

within a comfort zone so cold beverages are the theme of the day.

wanting to ride but unwilling to go into a 100 degree blazing sun.

So sitting under a vent with electronic entertainment.

So if a degree of incoherent comment happens its

all because of heat and boredom. that my excuse and i'm stickin to it !!!!
 

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I was thinkin he probably had checked that when I said Switches.

let see what he responds with.
 

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I did and figured he would then check switches and confirm the function

of and reply with a yes there is or no there isn't power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes i have checked the kill switch with the multimeter it is functioning. When i tested the ignition coil i got a 2.9 ohm for the primary and no reading when testing the secondary coil (using multi meter one end in the piggyback and one in the spark plug cap) I am under the impression that i should have a reading of 10k ish ohm... boy do i wish it was the kill switch!
 

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If you want the most primitive method of testing try hooking up the coil to power and

shorting the opposite side to ground.

Don't short the power side or a fuse might pop.

I m no where near the shop but I I R 1 of my bikes fires the coil when

the Ignition Switch is turned on then off. Maybe points type ??

If someone calls me on that 1 and proves me wrong .

I will Plead the Pink Floyd DEfense.

I just tested a GL coil with 8 aa batterys and got a 1/4 inch spark by just

unplugging 1 side.
 

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I`m assuming this is a transistorized ignition GL.

Find the black/white wire that goes to either coil, or either spark unit.
Turn ignition on.
Switch kill switch to `run`.

Use a multimeter - have you got 12V at any/all of these black/white wires?

If no, hook up a temporary wire from battery positive to any of these black/white wires and try to start the motorcycle.

Will it now start?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
sorry for the delay... so the ignition coil seems to be fine... fixed the old plug wires and new caps. i have tested the power supply to the ignitors and it is good. i picked up 0.1 v on the ground wire... so i am stuck at this point.... still no spark!!! agggghhhh
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have done all the tests in the article Dave F attached.... could it be the atu ignition timing unit? As far as i know the unit hasn't been touched.
 

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You did say "Keep it simple" and the kill switch is just about the simplest thing that could keep a bike from having spark......
It's embarrassing how often I miss that. :rolleyes:


A_Bushey, where are you? If you're nearby, I have a pair of spark units you could borrow to test.


R
 

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Piggyback???

Re kill switch: I had to ask. Don't ask me why I thought it might be that :rolleyes:
I have said it before and I will say it again. There are two types of bike people in this world; 1) Those that have tried to start their bikes with the kill switch in the off position and 2) Liars!
 

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I have done all the tests in the article Dave F attached....

What are the results of each of the tests? Please post the results for each of the tests you performed and we will help interpret them.

could it be the atu ignition timing unit?

Maybe, but the various test results are needed to make a determination.
 
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