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Shim over bucket isn't too bad.

Shim under bucket seems a lot of trouble for what should be a simple service operation.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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The Haynes manual had a drawing for a simple tool to depress the bucket without removing the camshaft but as Mike said, the hardest part was getting the proper shim from the dealer. The theory was that dealers were issued sets of shims and you could exchange the old ones for the ones you needed for a nominal fee, which was fine as long as the dealer had the ones you needed on hand. I had to wait almost a week for them to arrive from the warehouse....
 

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Shim over bucket?

Shim under bucket generally calls for measurements to be taken across all valves, calculations made as to the changes needed and the camshafts then removed to alter the shim packs.

I believe the reason for shim under bucket is that with shim over bucket the shims can be spat out if the engine experiences valve float.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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I guess it was shim over bucket. The shims sat in the top of the buckets and the cams pushed on the shims to open the valves. You had to measure all the clearances and if any were out of spec you pulled the shims and read the thickness and calculated the thickness of the shim needed.
Apparently Suzuki decided it wasn't the best idea aither because the '83 model I had later had screw adjusters like our Hondas.
 

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1982 CX500 Custom
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
After measuring things on the bike and doing some searching online, looks like I have some answers...kinda. I took some baling wire and routed it the way each cable should go without the extra length, cut it to length to match the cable housing and measured it.
If you search for "CX500 clutch cable" online there are a million reproduction cables that all day "3 inches longer than stock cable". I believe the housing length is 47 1/2 inches which is the same as the cable I currently have. I spent some time online and couldn't find a shorter one. If you search for OEM Honda cables all the sites say "out of stock".
I had more luck finding shorter throttle cables. The website 4into1.com had some cables that were about 2 inches shorter than the cables I have and 1.5 inches longer than what I think I need. I think it'll be close enough to avoid the extra bend and function well. I ordered a "control cable set" grub them which included a clutch cable too. I may attempt to cut the clutch cable to length.
While I was on that site I also ordered a braided steel brake cable for the new shorter length. The brakes are pretty spongy with the 40 year old rubber cable on there.
Package tracking shows that my fork seals will be delivered tomorrow while I'm at work. I'm off the next couple days after that. Hopefully I'll have time to get the forks resealed. And then the new cables installed. I'll post an update when I get it all wrapped up.
Thanks again for all the help so far.
 

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I do much the same to establish needed cable and brake line lengths but use three core light duty lighting wire or extension cord.

It is roughly the same thickness as cables and lines and flexes in a similar fashion.

Just 'install' it as if it were a cable and when satisfied with the length remove it and measure.
 

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1982 CX500 Custom
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Got the forks resealed today along with new oil. Previous owner included an unopened quart of 20 weight fork oil with the sale so that's what I used. Felt great pushing down on the handlebar in the shop. Before the rebuild I could push it all the way to bottom out and now it feels normal. Waiting on shorter cables and brake line to come in before I reassemble it and give it a road test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Got the new clutch cable, throttle cables and stainless braided brake line installed and they were all about the right length. They were all about 4 inches shorter than the ones that were on the bike with the longer handlebar.

The resealed front fork is definitely much nicer handling than it was. Doesn't bottom out and it doesn't rock nearly as bad while accelerating through the gears. The preload is definitely too soft though when I sit on the bike the fourth collapses about half way instead of the one third that it should. Haven't decided if I'm going to install a spacer or buy a new set of springs. I think for now I'm just going to ride it as is for a while. It's not perfect but for now I've got a great running bike that's fun to ride for around $750 invested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I lubed them. Even lubed the speedo cable (which I didn't replace) while I was at it. Feels like riding a brand new bike with the throttle, clutch and brakes all operating like new.
 

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Great job, Mike. I hope you don't mind me sticking my head into this room right quick-like and see if anyone can help.. I did a clutch cable search in the forum and ended up here. I was riding my 1981 CX500 Deluxe today. It was fun until my clutch cable broke. Had to trailer her back home. Will the low price aftermarket cable that is 3" too long work? I don't possess the skills to shorten a cable. The bike also has a Vetter fairing. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
If you can post a photo of your bike that shows the handlebar I could probably tell if they're the same or similar to mine. If they are that cable will work. It doesn't have to be exactly the right length. If it's a little too long it'll probably work just fine. Obviously if it's too short it won't work.
You could also remove your current cable, measure the cable housing and post it here. I'll measure the aftermarket cable I have and then we'd know if that one would work for you.
 

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If you can post a photo of your bike that shows the handlebar I could probably tell if they're the same or similar to mine. If they are that cable will work. It doesn't have to be exactly the right length. If it's a little too long it'll probably work just fine. Obviously if it's too short it won't work.
You could also remove your current cable, measure the cable housing and post it here. I'll measure the aftermarket cable I have and then we'd know if that one would work for you.
Thanks Mike. I sort of realized that 3" too long won't be a problem at all because any excess cable will be confined to the fairing. Thanks for your help. I also recently had to rebuild my fork seals and went with 20 wt. fork oil. Helped my bike tremendously. It was way too flimsy and really dove when you had to brake hard. It was a game changer. Keep us posted on your progress. Take care and God bless!
 
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