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not sure why it wouldn't work, but according to Partzilla maybe not:

his Honda 35130-MA1-670 SWITCH ASSY., STARTER ENGINE STOP fits the following models and components:
Honda Motorcycle 1981 GL500 A - SILVER WING HANDLE LEVER / SWITCH MIRROR
Honda Motorcycle 1981 GL500I A - SILVER WING INTERSTATE HANDLE LEVER / SWITCH MIRROR
Honda Motorcycle 1982 GL500 A - SILVER WING HANDLE LEVER / SWITCH MIRROR
Honda Motorcycle 1982 GL500I A - SILVER WING INTERSTATE HANDLE LEVER / SWITCH MIRROR
Honda Motorcycle 1983 GL650 A - SILVER WING CONTROL LEVERS / SWITCHES / CALBES
Honda Motorcycle 1983 GL650I A - SILVER WING INTERSTATE CONTROL LEVERS / SWITCHES / CALBES
 

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There may be some physical differences, but electrically, it should work. The handlebar is 7/8", so the controls will fit. Might appear mismatched if they come from different sources.


R
 

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you could use the CDI controls with a relay to change the action of the kill switch. When the relay is energized by the kill switch it would cut power to the ignition.
 

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a 82 gl and 82 ti cx are electrically the same

you may have to pop the prongs out and re arrange them at the control end i seem vaguely

to recall some quick fiddling with one of the connectors color code arrangement being different

but electrically they are the same
 

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Download the FSMs for the CX500 and GL500, and compare the wiring diagrams. The '82 Custom is covered in the last addendum chapter of the CX manual. That should show you whether the pinouts are different, as well as where those two blocks connect.


R
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
Happy to say that I was able to get the start button to work from a 79 CX CDI on my 82 TI. Next problem to solve with this crazy wiring harness is the lack of spark. I'm planning on doing all the multimeter testing found here, Ignition Problems . Hopefully I can figure it out.

Anyone know the check to perform to make sure the kill switch isn't on? Since I get no spark, I thought it could be that, but it didn't do anything different when I changed the settings. Of course, I'm trying to wire something that was meant for a different year.
 

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How did you wire in the kill switch? You may find that run and stop are now reversed so that there would be two run positions, labeled off, and one off position, labeled run.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I had to play with the multimeter to see where power was coming out of. I had to flip the black and black/white cables in order to get power to the spark plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Call for help. I have rebuilt the carbs using Larry’s book. I tried firing up the bike but no luck. Looks like I got gas in only one carb. When I was cleaning the carbs, the carb with the accelerator pump, where the accelerator tube connects, didn’t seem to flow well. I don’t bought it was a design difference between the two sides, but maybe that is an issue I need to fix. I would use my compressor to blow out each tube to make sure I had good flow. The only one that didn’t flow was that.

Let me know if you think that is an issue.

Now to the other problem. I can’t get the bik to start. I redid the starter button and kill switch wiring becuae the kill switch wasn’t working (it would send current in either position). So, rewired it and now the voltage is correct. But now, the starter button works only sometimes. Even when it does; it rare to get anything to fire. With the carb on, and only one getting gas, I still couldn’t get it to fire. I tried have the choke position on the carbs and seeing if that helped, but I still nothing. Sometimes I whave love get one pop, but it’s rare.

I have run the ignition tests that I’ve seen for the TI system and all seems right. I get a spark. Any ideas what else I should attack? New wiring harness? Bring it to a mechanic?

Thanks all
 

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How do you know that you are only getting gas in one carb? Have you checked the fuel level in the float bowl? This can be done by attaching clear tubing to the bowl drain and running it up beside the carb. Then open the drain screw. The fuel will rise in the tube. It should be near to but slightly below the joint between the float bowl and the carb body.
Have you tried to start using starter fluid?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
The reason i think it was only in one carb, was that i had gas coming out of the carb (flooded it), but didn't see any in the other carb. I need to check the float bowl, but didn't have time the other day. I will try to check next time.

I've tried started fluid, and I can get it to fire a bit, but not for long. I get a pop or two, and that's it.
 

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Maybe you have one overflowing carb and the other is good? Overflowing isn't normal.

Get some clear 4 mm tube, about 2 foot of it put one end on one carbs drain nipple, loop it over the top of the carbs and hook the other end to the other carbs drain nipple. At the highest point in the hose nip a little piece of hose out to allow air movement.

Now open both carbs drain screws a few turns. The fuel level will show in the tube. It should be on, to a mm or so below, the joint between carb body and float bowl.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Anyone has recommendation on aftermarket controls for a TI system? Would those universal controls i see on Ebay work or do people have experience with them. Since the TI system is a little easier then CDI for the start buttons, I figure it should be easier.
 

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I don't know what is available ... but buy quality if going down this path.

I had a feller want me to replace his right hand controls because the starter button had fallen out of the switch. I thought I'd be installing a replacement starter button but it was a full set of Chinese rubbish switches.

Bits were falling off and switch functions being lost before the install was even completed. The wires were so fine they couldn't have even OEM type terminals crimped to them. Just junk.

The OEM switches are very good quality and generally very rebuildable.

I've seen similar things played out on the forum here too.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I was thinking of maybe looking at used CBR controls to leverage. Seems like a few folks have used them. Being a TI system, i don't have to deal with the CDI kill switch thing. I'm sure the wiring will still be pain, but I hope I can pull it out.
 
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