Right, but the new temp gauge isn't a 7V like the original. Since it's aftermarket (both the gauge and the sending unit), that 7V regulator isn't setup for them.That's what the 7v regulator is for in the stock design. It knocks the variable 11v-14v in the system down to a consistent 7v.
The fluctuation is only when revving, and it's like 1 or 2 needle widths. So small to me to bother with, but popping in a regulator wouldn't be difficult at all. I just didn't find a need.Would it be easy to set up a 12 volt regulator for the gauge? Or get use to how the reading fluctuates with engine rpm.
Roger that, thanks for the insight!I used an M16x1.5MM to 1/8 NPT adapter to screw the new temp sensor that came with the gauge into the old temp sensor port. Right up next to the thermostat. I'd say the /only/ issue I have with the temp gauge is that when you rev the bike, the temp goes up from the voltage. I mean, it's cheap, but it gives me an idea of where I should be.
When I was considering a rear disc conversion, I assumed I would activate the mc with the lever on the left end of the brake pedal shaft. You'll probably be retaining that shaft to hold the pedal, anyway, and it will put the mc on the same side as the caliper.
Thanks Murray! I'll note that down for whenever the reassembly phase comes along.just had a quick look through your build thread i have not seen it before looks good
btw you have the left carb on the right side and the right side carb on the left
when they are turned around both idle screws (brass with the spring )will face out to make it easy