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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I hope it is something simple to fix but i dont really know ive read all the post and sometimes the syptoms match and others they dont. Ive got cdi coils on the way hopefully they work but i dont know. The repair shop i took it to is apparently retarded they tried to blame the problem ont he air boots from the air box said they were not on correctly and said i had two right side air boots which i did i went o a junk yard got it rite and now waiting to hear from them i doubt this will fix the problem the bike charges it runs good untill 55-60 or 5500 rpms in any gear including nuetral i really hope its not the stator when i get it back i will check for that it isnt the carbs just had those tuned and does anyone know how i can buy just one of those ignitecks to replace my cdi cause cdi isnt the way to go honda if you have one for sale i would like to buy it thanks for any info in advance 1980 cx500 travis
 

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See this thread for info on buying an ignitech unit,,I am not sure if there are any left from this group buy but there may be.



http://cx500forum.com/index.php?/topic/3553-ignitech-spring-2011-group-buy/page__st__30



I would search this site for info on testing the stator and also on the "white wire fix".



Your stator has two ignition windings on it, one is for low speed and one for high speed,,it sounds like your high speed winding may be bad, the white wire fix involves splicing in a splitter to power both inputs to the cdi from the low speed winding.
 

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First, welcome to the forum Travis. And thanks for filling out your profile with address and bike model.



There are a couple of things you might want to check that can cause this. You said the carbs had been "tuned". Does that mean properly cleaned? Are you sure the jets are in the right towers? They will fit both ways, but the larger number goes in the brass hex fitting. Another would be the O rings at the intake manifold. Are they in place and in good shape? All the carb boots clamps tight and not letting air in?



The stator puts out two voltages. One for under about 4500 RPM (the white wire), and one for above 4500 RPM (the blue wire). If you are not getting good voltage to the CDI on the high RPM winding, the bike will not run much above 5000 RPM. There is a "white wire fix", where you use the voltage from the low speed winding to power the high side of the CDI. Essentially, you run another wire from the white input wire to the blue input terminal of the CDI. This isn't a true permanent fix, but may help on diagnosis of where the problem is.



The CDI can also stop putting out voltage to the coils above the 5000 RPM level. The only true check is to swap in a known good CDI and see if it makes a difference. Coils, plug caps, plugs,and HT wires, can also cause similar issues.



Let us know more about the problem. Did it occur suddenly? Or did you just get the bike and the PO said it wouldn't rev above 5000. Any other details on what may have been done, or done wrong would also be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
well its the high windings on the stator i was looking at a thing called a raymodule that claims to fix this problem t it takes away the need for the high windings to kick in im not to sure but do you think this or the ignitech would be a better fix this one is cheaper i think around 150$ american i cant find the number for the part of ignitech to see how much just for one unit looks like i missed the group buy and it seems everyone has the same problem with these bikes i just got this one and getting out the kinks if i have to ill replace the stator but since its the same price as the others i would rather not crack open my engine anyone using that raymodule??? dos it work its easier to installl than the ignitech anyway any info would be great thanks alot
 

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My bike is currently fitted with a Raymodule and is running the later 250 watt stator with no ignition windings. These work great and I have no hesitation in reccommending one to anyone.



BUT when you take into account the freight costs {the Raymodule is made in Australia} {I also don't know if another batch is currently available} and you can get the ignitech unit on a group buy which also replaces the aging CDI unit for around $170 I'd go for the ignitech.



The Raymodule powera the existing CDI unit from the battery turning 12v into 190 - 200v while the ignitech is basically the same thing with a new CDI box integrated.



Wiring/installation of the units are both pretty much no brainers but where the ignitech will fit where the existing CDI unit is a home will need to be found for a Raymodule, usually on an alloy plate on the side of the airbox, or like mine in the handbook pocket on my custom.



I will be buying an ignitech unit at the end of the week when I get paid, not because I have any concerns with my Raymodule but because the 30 year old CDI box does concern me and this bike is currently my only transport.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
who do i talk to directly to get a ignitech? and whens the next buy the dates on these are from last year? and if i do get it and put it on it will solve all stator problems or will i have to still get a new stator i have one from a 1982cx but they wont match up on the wiring or can i use my old one seeing as how the low speed and charging windings are good thanks for the advice you saved me alot of money guys
stupid motorcycle shops
 

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If you use the ignitech {or the Raymodule} you can use that '82 stator. This is basically the setup my bike runs now.



Your existing stator that has the coil windings for the ignition is rated at 170 watt output. The '82 and later stators, because they don't have the ignition windings are dedicated charging stators and as such have a 250 watt output. Just the thing if you want uprated lighting or other electrical doodads.



You would need to make some adaptations to the stator wiring harness as you will still need to retain the CDI pulser and advance coils, but this is fairly straightforward.



Or, if your present stator is still charging the battery you could just leave it in place and disconnect the blue and white wires and tape them off.



Hope this is of some help.



And regarding the ignitechs, - Cobrams your man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yes that was helpfull i did the white wire thing today and it works cant go all the way to 9500 but 8200 rpms beats the crap outta 5500rpms thanks guys for all the help i contacted him about a ignitech i will try to get one asap cause i dont want the charging windings to go on me while it is jimmy rigged by the way do you know about how many miles i can get off the white wire fix without destroying it or should i just let it sit until i cang et a ignitech once again guys thanks for all the help my mechanic was trying to charge 600$ o fix the stator and he didnt even know if that was the problem but u live u learn from now on all work on this bike is by my hands only not only to save money but for the exp i get out of it.........its so much fun to work on bikes lol
 

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I don't think the white wire "fix" will affect the charging windings. They are separate coils on the stator and not hooked up the the charging system at all. Now, will the white wire fix cause any damage if used permanently? I don't know, but the damage would be to the CDI unit only, I would think. I seem to remember people running the fix for an extended period, but as you noticed, it doesn't restore all the revs, but it does help.
 

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Ditto what Blue fox said,- the white wire fix in theory shouldn't harm the charging side of the alternater.



I have personally never used the white wire fix but my personal theory on using the low speed coils to power both the low and high speed is that if you are doubling the low speed coils work load you will be shortening the low speed coils life prematurely.



Not really a big deal since the ignition side of your stator is already toast but I wouldn't be taking my bike on any interstate trips in this condition just in case.



The stator on my bike actually died on the charging side, noy the CDI but fitting the later model "charge only" stator with the Ray module seemed a better way to go than fitting a second hand CDI stator {untrustworthy} or a new or rewound CDI stator {expensive}.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yea i mean its only for maybe like 14 days and i wont be riding alot since its still 50s in knoxville i havent had this thing at kinda full power ya know for a 500 this thing will scoot dont like the 85mps speedo on this thing tho i know i shouldnt be going that high with a repair like that but its hard not to
Once again thanks for all the info you guys have given me and as always pinkys up
 

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I could be wrong but I seem to remember reading that there was someone in the U.K. that drove for a year or so this way. Also it is recommended that you reduce the spark plug gap by two thousandth of an inch when using this fix. If you are only going to be doing this for a couple of weeks though it is probably alright with the normal gap.
 

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Dang, I wished that I would have followed your link sooner. I thought that to be a Grand Nagus you had to have a complete Zen relationship with your bike. And the test for this was to be able to catch a fly, unharmed, with a pair of chopsticks, while riding the twisties at 70 MPH. And then use the chopsticks to do a triple bypass along the side of the road. I sure wasted a lot of time practicing doing that when all I had to do was make a few more idiotic like this one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
lol really the thing offa star trek with titties for a head nice they were always so mean and unhelpfull tho luckily u guys arent
or id be in finacial trouble lol
 

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I just started reading Zen and The Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, and an experience similar to yours led him to take care of his own scoot also. Good book so far.
 
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