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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok. I just bought this bike a few days ago to help a friend. He told me it needed a tune up because it would act up at take off and at higher Rpms. I changed the plugs, and filter is new. I got googling and found on your forum a guy back in May, that was having the exact same problem. His name was Iawoesiwak. After an enormous amount of trial and error he found that the pin holding the reluctor on (engine speed sensor trigger) was worn. He repaced and all is awesome. Can anyone tell me where that reluctor is and how to get to it. I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
 

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Welcome to the forum, Jason. You may want to post your problem in the General section, rather than the Turbo section. The Turbo forum is little noticed, except by turbo owners. You will get much more exposure in another section. Also, restate your problem, just saying that "it acts up at takeoff and higher RPMs" really doesn't identify what you are experiencing. I seriously doubt that the reluctor button is causing your problem. That is such a slight possibility, compared to other areas that I would almost dismiss it before checking other areas.



Go back to your Profile page and fill in your location, and then put your bike's model in the signature block section. We can't help much without knowing the model. And there may be someone close if we know where you are that will want to help sort things out.
 

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Ok. I just bought this bike a few days ago to help a friend. He told me it needed a tune up because it would act up at take off and at higher Rpms. I changed the plugs, and filter is new. I got googling and found on your forum a guy back in May, that was having the exact same problem. His name was Iawoesiwak. After an enormous amount of trial and error he found that the pin holding the reluctor on (engine speed sensor trigger) was worn. He repaced and all is awesome. Can anyone tell me where that reluctor is and how to get to it. I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.




You will get more responses in the non-turbo forum. However, I will attempt to help you here anyway.

If I recall, the non-turbo CX's and GLs have CV carbs (a large piston inside a round dome cap at the top). These carbs are very sensitive to correct adjustment and no vacuum leaks. Take the carbs off of the bike. Strip them to the bare casting, including the float, needles, slow & main jets, and the pilot screw jets. What happens is the ports get clogged and the low speed jet cannot pass fuel, so It goes to the high speed jet (the one under the need connected to the piston), and subsequently performs poorly at low and mid-range. You may notice a sudden burst of speed and running normally at higher RPM, then back to running poorly at lower RPM. They probably need a rebuild anyway. It's pretty staight forward to rebuild them. When setting your initial pilot screw openings, screw in all the way, then back out about 1 or 1.25 full turns. Float height is approx 15mm.

Then make sure all of the other tune items are correct (clean & properly gapped plugs, new wires, and correct resistance in the coils. It may be a CDI ignition system (no voltage to the coil with the ignition on, engine off). A standard ignition will have voltage to the coil when the key is on and engine off). DO NOT TAMPER WITH A CDI SYSTEM WHEN TESTING!!! High voltage from the module to the plug wire is 20K to 40K volts and can kill you.

Just simply pull one of the plugs at a time, ground to the engine and crank her over; if the coil is good, the spark will be fat and blue. Good enough there.

However, I still think it is in the carbueration. Make sure of course that you are getting good flow from the petcock to the carbs.

Try these things first, then post the results. Don't worry, we will figure it out.....OK?

Here is a good link on CV carbs:

http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,cv,high_rpm_engines.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks rod. I forgot to mention that it runs alot better( not as much sputtering) if it is on choke when I rev it. Think that is carb related? Thanks
 

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Thanks rod. I forgot to mention that it runs alot better( not as much sputtering) if it is on choke when I rev it. Think that is carb related? Thanks


Jason,

The fact that the choke on helps the running, is a clear indicator of a clogged jet or pilot passage. Whats happening, is the low speed jet, or the jet passage, is clogged and no fuel is getting through the idle circuit. Like I said before, strip them down to the bare casting. Then use Berryman Carb Cleaner, which is very powerful. PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE WEAR GLOVES AND GOGGLES!!! Spray all holes in the bottom of the carb until a clear unobstructed stream flows into the throat passage (the tiny holes in the smooth bore, near the butterflies). If you run into a clogged passage, a very small wire pushed in and out will usually break it up where you can then spray it loose. Make sure you have no rubber rings or seals on the carb when you spray them (it will deform and shrink them). Then reassemble. DO NOT use any sealant, just tighten the bowl screw and piston cap snug by hand. Let me know how that goes. Here are a few additional links on CV carbs, one is a PDF document. They are good reading and refreshers for people who may have not worked on these in awhile.......



http://www.kz400.com/Workshop manual bilder/CV Carbs.pdf

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Motorcycle-Repair-837/Clogged-Carbs.htm
 

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Jason,

The fact that the choke on helps the running, is a clear indicator of a clogged jet or pilot passage. Whats happening, is the low speed jet, or the jet passage, is clogged and no fuel is getting through the idle circuit. Like I said before, strip them down to the bare casting. Then use Berryman Carb Cleaner, which is very powerful. PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE WEAR GLOVES AND GOGGLES!!! Spray all holes in the bottom of the carb until a clear unobstructed stream flows into the throat passage (the tiny holes in the smooth bore, near the butterflies). If you run into a clogged passage, a very small wire pushed in and out will usually break it up where you can then spray it loose. Make sure you have no rubber rings or seals on the carb when you spray them (it will deform and shrink them). Then reassemble. DO NOT use any sealant, just tighten the bowl screw and piston cap snug by hand. Let me know how that goes. Here are a few additional links on CV carbs, one is a PDF document. They are good reading and refreshers for people who may have not worked on these in awhile.......



http://www.kz400.com/Workshop manual bilder/CV Carbs.pdf

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Motorcycle-Repair-837/Clogged-Carbs.htm
Homer Rod,

Weren't you working on modifying your turbo bike some time ago. I seem to remember your stuff on the old forum. How did that work out? Anything you would like to share with us here?



Ed
 
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