Ahhh seems you thought ahead much more than I did! I guess raising it up might be part of your side stand troubles tho? I am fingers crossed that the side stand will work effectively enough to ditch the center stand or leave it there for show. I do not like how leaned over a lot of the bikes look on the side stand after these conversions, but it is the nature of the beast. Either that or they are too long and the bike wants to tip over unless you use on an incline.When I was mounting my BBCR kit I put the bike was on the center stand an placed a piece of wood under the rear tire to give me the clearance that I needed before drilling.
I am mulling this over, but the fresh coat of powdercoat, and hefty (but fair) $$$ from my painter is leaning me to not resend it. I may use one of the extra center stands from other bikes, and extend it and send back to the painter. Then I can use this stand for another build provided I reuse the same silver powder color. Decisions decisions...one option is to try putting either a 1/2" or 3/4" piece of wood under the center stand to determine how much clearance you need and have a shop cut and add a section to the stand.
I gave your thread a brief read on my mobile, and will reference moving forward. I like the 3D printed battery box. Amazing to see the printers in action.Take a look at my my cx build
No way man cool stuff! I live right over the border, if you pass the Chelmsford forum (ice rink), and bang a left after the route 3 overpass you'll be close to my street near Mill Road. I frequently go to the Plaistow area for some vendors as well. The NH bike scene is pretty nice.Hey Alex, I just realized where you live. I'm from Billerica originally and live over the border in Danville next to Plaistow. If ya ever need a hand or want to check out what I did with mine let me know
You could also use one of the banjo-bolt brake-light switches. Easier to make look nice in my opinion. The M-unit also has an integrated auxiliary brake light switch tied to its accelerometer. Food for thought.Hey Alex, one think that always get over looked one these build until after reassembly is the rear brake switch mount. that section of the frame gets cut off. I didn't realize until after everything was back together. I drilled and tapped two small holes in the block off plate and made a little bracket and shortened the spring.
The banjo brake light switches are definitely very cool, but remember they require brake fluid! We are working with a drum brake in the rear, so there is no banjo bolt to replace unfortunately. I have seen some links for converting the rear wheel to disk brake, but I am resisting any urge to open those threads hahaha! I actually don't mind the drum, and I'm a front brake heavy rider. Especially with the street bike front ends (R1, GSX-R, etc) I can't justify doing any modification to the rear drum to increase stopping power. There should be plenty of stopping capability with the big dual disk rotors up front.You could also use one of the banjo-bolt brake-light switches. Easier to make look nice in my opinion. The M-unit also has an integrated auxiliary brake light switch tied to its accelerometer. Food for thought.
You have a better refined riding style than me my friend. I'm probably setting a bad example for the new riders but I don't use the rear brake during casual braking. I don't keep my foot above the rear brake pedal, and prefer the feel of the front braking versus the rear. I've locked up the front a few times, once on my XR 650L back when I was a new rider circa 2011 (I went down), and on my FZ 07 three times. Once I went down, the other two I escaped with only a minor brown spot on my briefs .I always brake at the rear first.
And I've had two front switches go out in the last year.
I check all my lights before leaving the shed.
Agreed 100%! Left foot down, stretch out my back a bit by letting go of the handlebars, sitting upright, and depressing the rear brake instead of the front. I've also heard riders preach that you should keep the bike in gear and use the clutch when stopped at a traffic light, and not put in neutral. This allows you to quickly maneuver the bike if you see anyone coming your way or whatever. Personally, I'm a whore for neutral. I always find it as I approach a red light in second gear, and I cringe everytime I see a biker with the clutch pulled just sitting there. Talk about wearing out the friction plates and getting a sore wrist. It is a bit safer I'll admit, but with a good level of skill one can quickly throw the bike in gear.I learned to ride on dirt. Using the rear is second nature and I generally didn't use much front brake. The rear may not add much to actual braking effort but stabilises the bike. But I notice most riders don't seem to use the rear brake these days. You can tell when they put their right foot down at the lights. With me it'll always be the left.
Probably a little bit of both. I was rather meticulous to degrease and clean the engine but there is just so much aluminum to cover. Before the second coat of primer I sanded back this section and it got better, but still a bit bumpy and bubbly. I think part of it is the casting as you suggest. I will take another look before the last coat of primer.Was this filth or part of the casting? I've cleaned things like this back before only to find they were actually aluminium rather than dried grease or whatever.