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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I recently traded my car for a 1979 Honda Cx500d running in mint condition. The bike has been running fantastic, ive put 1200 miles on it in a week. I live the bike. However I was riding it the other day and the oil pressure light came on. So I immediately cut the bike off. Someone stopped to ask if i needed help and was avle to give me a qt or 10w30. I figured any oil would be better than no oil. That got me partly home however the clutch started acting weird and later the light flickered at idle. So I cut it off. At thos point I went and bought 3 qts of shell rotella 15w40 and drianed the oil with the oil drain and replaced it with the 15w40. Drove home but something wasnt right. Cranked her the next morning and she seemed to be running great, as usual. But a mile down the road the clutch started feeling weird again so I went to turn her around and she started knocking and died. Wouldn't crank backbup. I pushed her home from there.
So what now?
Do I drain the oil and check the oil filter for metal?
Go ahead and drop the motor and get it on the table?
Or find a donor motor?
I have to have this bike running, its my only transportation and I don't really know this bike. However I am mechanically inclined and eager to learn.
Any light on my situation will be greatly appreciated, these forums tend to help significantly
I live near Atlanta, south outer perimeter if anyone is local
-ccsbivens
 

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drian the oil pull the filter look on the filter pleats for any copper specs under a bright light

and weird shimmering on ythe drained oil surface (ground up copper )

if that is ok i would like to know more about the clutch feeling weird

i have seen some strange things happen with a loose clutch nut
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
drian the oil pull the filter look on the filter pleats for any copper specs under a bright light

and weird shimmering on ythe drained oil surface (ground up copper )

if that is ok i would like to know more about the clutch feeling weird

i have seen some strange things happen with a loose clutch nut
Thats the next thing I'ma do is check the oil filter. I did have about half a quart too much oil. I think that may have been my fatality. I pulled the plugs, they were dry but obviously running rich. Inside the chamber didn't show any signs of a leaking seal, top of pistons were dry and both plugs were consistent.
So if its just a low end rebuild what would i be looking at to get it fixed? Or do you think i should try to crank it with the oil level corrected? I did not run it very long when it started acting weird. I cut it off at the first sign of something funky. As far as the clutch, it just felt soft and the engine was running higher rpms than usual. Almost like it was slipping
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ill have to wait until I'm home to check the oil filter. But what are my odds that I broke something? Can these engines handle a tiny bit of abuse?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Abuse yes

no oil no
When the oil light came on I immediately cut the bike off and topped it off, when i did the oil change though i put half a quart too much. Is too much oil fatal? I only drove it maybe 2 miles with it overfilled. My father said it may be ok, to just try to crank it now that the oil level is proper. Its either gonna knock or not right?
 

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How much was it low on oil, there might be another reason the light came on a loss of oil pressure is not good even when full of oil. Pump problems, bad pump, bad or worn pump chain, stuck/bad/clogged oil relief valve, clogged filter, stuck carb. needle valve will cause flooding and lock up motor, not likely though. Take out spark plugs and see if it will crank over, check battery to see if it has a full charge too . These are things you can check that cost nothing to check. Shell Rotella 15w40 is OK I think , anybody else think different?. Lets hear it.
 

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drian the oil pull the filter look on the filter pleats for any copper specs under a bright light

and weird shimmering on ythe drained oil surface (ground up copper )

if that is ok i would like to know more about the clutch feeling weird

i have seen some strange things happen with a loose clutch nut
this.
 

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Ok, well the bike still runs. So it may not be a boat anchor yet.
After you run through MurrayF's suggestions, please help us by answering the following questions;

1.) What is the mileage on the bike?
2.) Do you have any manuals? Specifically, the FSM (Factory Service Manual)
3.) What was the mileage the last time you adjusted the cam chain tension?
4.) What was the mileage when you adjusted valve clearances?
5.) What was the mileage at the last clutch service?

Until you diagnose and repair the problem, you will need to find alternate transportation. Quit riding. You will only increase the damage.
 

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clunk test

the noise will be a sloppy rod bearing

if you want to see do the following

remove the sparkplugs

put a screwdriver down the hole so it is on top of the piston it does not matter which one you do first

rotate the motor on the front crank bolt till the screwdriver rises to top dead center and past so the screwdriver is falling

press down on the piston with the screw driver it should not move

try the other side

the one or ones that move or make a clunk

have the rod bearings destroyed and the crank ground up
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok, well the bike still runs. So it may not be a boat anchor yet.
After you run through MurrayF's suggestions, please help us by answering the following questions;

1.) What is the mileage on the bike?
2.) Do you have any manuals? Specifically, the FSM (Factory Service Manual)
3.) What was the mileage the last time you adjusted the cam chain tension?
4.) What was the mileage when you adjusted valve clearances?
5.) What was the mileage at the last clutch service?

Until you diagnose and repair the problem, you will need to find alternate transportation. Quit riding. You will only increase the damage.
1. 16,000 on the odometer. Probably 116,000 if i were to guess..
2. Some that I've downloaded, i just got the bike a little over a week ago, so Ive done no scheduled maintenance to the bike besides a shotty oil change.
The previous owner had the engine gone through and all the gaskets replaced, so the engine was suppose to be in prestine condition. And the bike really did run great, I hope to get it running again. Ill drain the oil and check the filter and try checking the pistons here shortly
Until the problem is fixed and the engine sounds healthy, shes stuck on the service stand. If I drove it it'd only be a matter of time before it seizes
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Pulled the filter, definately saw copper shavings in the filter.. So what am I looking at? My father would have a little experience and all the tools, so is this a repair I should take on myself? Do machine shops do motorcycle engines? Or do I start looking for a used motor?
 

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Well, you are probably going to have to pull the engine from the bike. A partial teardown may be warranted to assess the damage.

Murray's clunk test will tell much before partial teardown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, you are probably going to have to pull the engine from the bike. A partial teardown may be warranted to assess the damage.

Murray's clunk test will tell much before partial teardown.
With that being said, Ima drop the motor and take it down to my dads. He has a full shop where we can set it on the table. Since I'm looking at a rebuild, what should I change while I'm in there so I can start a parts list? Id like to go ahead and do all the scheduled maintainence while the engines open. I guess I'll go ahead and run a compression test and see if the top end is as good as it looks
 

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grab another engine

you can pick up a used engine for 200 and up for a good one

the minimum to fix yours with luck will be more

and if you actually rebulid it welding and grinding the crank and resizing the rods are way more

even before bearings (if you can find them) and gaskets
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
grab another engine

you can pick up a used engine for 200 and up for a good one

the minimum to fix yours with luck will be more

and if you actually rebulid it welding and grinding the crank and resizing the rods are way more

even before bearings (if you can find them) and gaskets
My father said the exact same thing. Find a good, used motor and swap it. Then I can take my time completely overhauling the other one if I wish too.
I found a good motor for 300, and Im still tracking some leads.
Anyone in my area have a motor for sale??
 

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how many miles on the good motor

and do you have a multi meter to do a stator test before you buy it

if you buy a good motor with 18 k plus miles

you need may wind up doing a triple bypass and ending you cost with another 275 plus into the motor
 
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