Honda CX 500 Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Howdy all,

Could use a bit of help on this one because hydraulic brakes can be a bit of a pain for me. I recently pulled both wheels off to put on new tires, after doing so the rear wheel functions perfectly. However, the front brake is dragging by a decent amount to the point where my brakes get hot fast. The bike will still move when riding, but if i try to get the wheel to move by hand I have to give it a decent push. Is there anyway to adjust the tension of the pads on the disc or should I be looking elsewhere?

I would greatly appreciate some pointers, and thank you for your time!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,278 Posts
How you have removed the front wheel?
Removed the caliper ?
Pressed back the pads ?
The piston is moving rather free ?

The axle sits correct ?

Make on both sides of the disc a black mark with an Edding /waterprof marker and run and brake the bike.
You will see after a short way, if both marking lines are gone or not.
Is the marking line still just on one side of the disc, then the piston and/or the sliding screws are dry/worn....what else.

Gruesse
WolFgang
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24,211 Posts
the truth to this is and i say this with great intention

if you had to ask these questions you may not know enough to keep yourself safe!

consider taking the bike to a professional to get it looked at if the front brake seizes you can loose control

another suggestion that could help is see if a qualified member lives near you

stay safe and off the bike till the brakes are fixed !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,278 Posts
You shocked me in the morning, don't do that again, Murray, Please, Dear Sir ;)

But You're right.
My very, very, very cynical answer would be: Make what You want with Your front brake, but be always very sure the rear brake is at it's best. :mad:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
240 Posts
Sounds very reminiscent of the old corrosion behind the caliper piston seal issue... I would take the entire system apart and thoroughly clean the master cylinder and the caliper(s)... Insure all the corrosion is removed from the caliper seal groove prior to putting in the new seals... I use grease specially designed for caliper seals in the groove and on the piston as it helps prevent future corrosion... Thoroughly clean the master cylinder and install a good quality rebuild kit in it... If you have never done any of the above it is highly recommended that you at the very least obtain help from someone with experience... If the bike won't run, it's inconvenient... If it won't stop, it's lethal...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,398 Posts
Cduncan. First, heed these guys words. Second, it isn't so dire. Just don't ride until you have this sorted out.

I would suggest for you to get a Haynes or Clymers manual for these bikes. And download the FSM (Factory Service Manual) from this site. Now, spend a bit of time to read the chapters about the front brake.

This could be a simple problem like dirty slide pins not allowing the caliper to fully release or as complex as a complete rebuild. Either way, read the material, then take it step by step.

FWIW, my bike had a locked up front brake when I bought it. A real bugger trying to unload from my 2500HD pickup with a locked up front wheel. Anyhow, long story short. The problem turned out to be dirty slide pins. The caliper had enough umph to move the slide pins, but the springs didn't have enough to release them.....just too much guck hanging things.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,398 Posts
Problem was I needed the brake to control the descent down the ramp. Couldn't get Mrs Knute to act as a brake....... it was all could do to get her to help steady it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,398 Posts
Yeah, she wasn't real thrilled when the CXC came home. Of course, that has been SOP for more years than I can count. It all started back when we had a half acre lot and I had to push a 21" mower for 2 hours 2-3X per week. I went an got a used walk behind pro ZTR mower. IIRC that was around '92.........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,278 Posts
pickin' nits...... I know there aint no springs.
Fine: You know it I know it, but Cduncan will be confused.

The nr.11 on Condos link/drawing You could say the function is like a spring. But this part is just to press a litte the pads to the caliper holder.

A really function like as a spring is the nr.3: the square/quadratic O-ring = brake liquid seal ring
When the piston is actuated he is deformed into a rectangle.
The inner force of this rubber ring -when the brake lever is released- wants to bring him back to the quadratic form and brings the piston back. The pads are released : and don't block the disc.
The blocking part is mostly a corroded or gunked/dirty piston.

Often You can confirm that blocking effect when the pads have a different thickness. The pad on one side is thicker than the other one.

Gruesse
WolFgang
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,398 Posts
nah....... got 0.8 acres tended with a 21 hp Areins ZTR mower piloted by my 17 yo daughter. I cant mow grass in S. Carolina while I'm here.

Wives......gotta luv 'em, cuz generally they're too big to eat. Should've heard the howling when I brought that home in 2007. She still howls about it.

I'd like to see that contraption in operation. Next time you mow, get Mrs Condo to make a video. :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,398 Posts
Is there someone normal in MI?? Perhaps less abnormal. OR would that be someone named A.B. Normal? Young Frankenstien.......too phunny. "What knockers." "Why thank you Dr."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
I once had that problem after installing new pads on the front. I completely flushed the brake fluid and when the reservoir was near empty, there are a couple of micro thin holes where the hydraulic fluid flows down and returns. If you take the wire from a loaf of bread twist tie (after removing the paper from it), that is just thin enough to clean out these holes which after a while can get clogged causing the caliper pistons to stick. Calipers can also stick if the bolts are not well greased. Hope this helps. After checking the bolts and the holes in the reservoir, if the brakes still drag after 50 or so miles,bring it to a professional. Brakes are not something to mess around with. Good luck.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top