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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After all of the great valve adjustment advice on here, I was going to give the valve adjustment another try. What I found is that the head of the 17mm crank shaft hole cover is stripped so that I can not turn it with a socket or wrench. I am wondering whether I should give a bolt/screw extractor a try or whether someone has a better idea.
 

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i have had luck using a one size smaller socket and pounding it one but that has been on head bolts on a car and the like never on this kind of engine so i dont know maybe you could try it it should be on to damn tight so it might work if you tried that maybe some one with more experience will chime in here
 

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You are going to have to get it off without drilling any holes in it. The shavings will go inside the motor. You may have to pull the radiator shroud off to make room for something more aggressive. Make sure the socket or wrench is a 6 point. Otherwise it will just strip it more.

Sometimes you can use an SAE socket that will fit a bit tighter. You may have to tap it on though. I just tested a 5/8 socket. It's tight if you tap it on.

Good luck.
 

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so larry it would be safe to put a different socket on it then and tap it on that is good to know then thats what i would try to do
 

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File the edges down until you can softly tap a 16mm socket onto it.They are a very low torque Cover and soft.Decent hand tight on refit and feel the seal.Use the knuckle of a socket and wrench,not a spanner/wrench on it's own.



HTH
 

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If there is room to use one,a small pipe wrench or similar 'pinching" type tool should do it



You might try filing or grinding the flats to fit another wrench, like a good 12 point box end and tapping it on as lucky suggested.



Have three hands? Tap & turn simultainiously?



That is pretty soft aluminum,obviously.



I would drill only as last resort for fear of swarf getting inside.



Good luck.




edit: GMTA, LRCXed, lucky AND Shep beat me to it. ! Very good point about the SAE sizes too.
 

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If there is room to use one,a small pipe wrench or similar 'pinching" type tool should do it



You might try filing or grinding the flats to fit another wrench, like a good 12 point box end and tapping it on as lucky suggested.



Have three hands? Tap & turn simultainiously?



That is pretty soft aluminum,obviously.



I would drill only as last resort for fear of swarf getting inside.



Good luck.




edit: GMTA, LRCXed, lucky AND Shep beat me to it. ! Very good point about the SAE sizes too.




were just type faster than you
 

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I've come across few chewed up ones and theres an easy but somewhat destructive way to remove them by using a flat blade screwdriver as a chisel and tapping from

2 o clock to 10 o clock or similar angle at 90 degrees to the axis.

ie. across the face not into the face.

I found a chisel 'cut' too much while the screwdriver pushed with attitude

and got the sods moving



Easy and quick and not a prob if you have spares, I had luckily

I believe they're quite easy to get hold of and the Honda CG125

usess them for tappet covers.

If you have no, or cant get, spares you might try a cautious tap, but

I warn you now, the outer lip is very easy to break.
 

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you know reg i was think the same thing before i said about the tapping a socket on but i was think that it might screw it up even more
 

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Hence 'somewhat destructive' Lucky

Typical British understatement eh?




As I had plenty of spares I was quite willing and often did

'bugger em right up' getting them off
 

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yep i noticed you damn brits lol you guys have spares for everything
 

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lets say you have no spares and my brute force and ignorance approach

doesnt appeal much anyway.

A six sided socket may give better purchase especially if its packed out

with tin foil, coarse grinding paste, body filler, chemical metal

something to take up the slack, you get the idea.

I've found once you 'unstick' them and get them running they usually come out easy enough

unless some eejits cross threaded them and forced them in at gunpoint

Omce its off it will be much easier to modify to take say a 16mm

or 5/8 socket (15.85mm)

I use lots of copperease on the threads of mine and only fit them hand tight
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
This is why I love this forum. I posted this problem 3 1/2 hours ago and there are 12 (very useful) replies already. I will try filing the edges down and fitting a 16mm. I will let you all know how it goes. Thanks!
 

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This is why I love this forum. I posted this problem 3 1/2 hours ago and there are 12 (very useful) replies already. I will try filing the edges down and fitting a 16mm. I will let you all know how it goes. Thanks!


See the link to another thread I posted so when you get it off replace it with the one from the Rear Drive box if that has a better cover.Then you can access the bad one easier for the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
See the link to another thread I posted so when you get it off replace it with the one from the Rear Drive box if that has a better cover.Then you can access the bad one easier for the future.
Shep, this is a great suggestion. That drive box cap is in good shape, so I will switch them when I get the crankshaft cover off.
 

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you can also take a cutting tool like a dremmel or a saw and slowly ever so slowly cut 3 slashes in the head and teh try tapping the cuts with a screwdriver and a mallet but dont cut threw the head or find a sacrificial socket and jb weld it to the plug then just remove it and its kinda ghetto fixed till next time or till a new plug is found
 

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Do replace the cap/cover after you get it off. You don't want to go through that again even in a location that is easier to get at.
 

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I snapped one off earlier this year. Bought a new pair off ebay for about $11 each.
 
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