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Hey!!!! This is my beauty 😍 I race enduroX and have many years experience but am new to the twin carb world. couple of questions -

The bike hadn’t been ridden for a couple of months and was running extremely lean when I got it (would only run at about half choke and even then wouldn’t idle-YIKES!). I got the idle adjustment worked out with the dial between the carbs, but (Q1) she seems to have an issue with hot starting-if I take her out to get fuel, for example, even being off for a few minutes she really doesn’t want to start. Seems to need to fully cool before being able to fire off again. Fresh sparkies? She also high pitch backfires and idles rough when cold started. I’m working my way through a bottle of sea foam that I think is helping?

Q2- from the breather hose that comes out of the right side of the motor there seems to be an oil leak-nothing crazy just a seep, oil looks beautiful but I’m thinking a bad o-ring?

Q3-WHERE IS THE GD COOLANT RESERVOIR ON THIS THING?!

TIA!
 

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I think you may be missing the airdam on top of the motor and your ignition coils may be heat sinking.

But it also sounds like it may be lean from the backfire and cold behaviour.

Yes, the oil leak from the breather is just an O ring. I'll get you the size when I go out to my shed next.

Coolant reservoir is behind the back of the motor on the left side.

I'll move this thread to technical help. You'll get more replies to this there.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think you may be missing the airdam on top of the motor and your ignition coils may be heat sinking.

But it also sounds like it may be lean from the backfire and cold behaviour.

Yes, the oil leak from the breather is just an O ring. I'll get you the size when I go out to my shed next.

Coolant reservoir is behind the back of the motor on the left side.

I'll move this thread to technical help. You'll get more replies to this there.
You are awesome, THANK YOU!! But, lean still?! I feel like if I add an more fuel to the mix she’s going to be waaaaay rich. I’m turning the dial clockwise (inwards)....you think even more?

How do I fix “heat sinking”? I’m unfamiliar with that term...sorry for my ignorance!
 

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Are you talking the black knob between the carbs? That's the idle speed adjustment.

Mixture is a brass screw under the front of the carb.

Heat sinking is when the radiant heat from the motor reaches the ignition coils heating them up. The heat doesn't stop when the motor is shut down but persists at high enough levels to matter for at least 5 minutes so the coils stay hot. Then they produce weak sparks.

Bookmark this. You'll find it handy.


And from there, is your bike fitted with # 9?


They're often removed from modded CXs.
 

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Some may disagree, but in the factory service manual the two nuts on the clutch cable are both above the perch, not one above and one below as on your bike. The clutch cable routing is also off from what is suggested in the factory service manual.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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I think he meant "heat soaking", when an electrical component temporarily stops working because it is too hot. A lot of people believe the air dam is absolutely necessary to prevent that (and it may be in hot places like Australia) but mine hasn't had one for 15 years (I removed it to channel heat in cold weather) and in couple of times I've used it all summer it hasn't caused any problems.

The coolant recovery tank should be where Phreak described but on a bike that heavily modified it could be anywhere or even completely missing. Follow the small hose from the rad neck and it should be at the other end.

Your crankcase breather is not original either. IIRC, the '81 came with a hose from the rear of each head connected to a separator setup in the air cleaner that allowed liquids to fall into a tube (that should be drained regularly) and gasses to pass back into the intake so any fuel in them can have a 2nd chance to be burned. It appears that someone has replaced that with a hose connected to the cap for the port where you observe the timing marks when checking the valve clearances &c. I'd suggest replacing the cap's o-ring when you go over the bike (as you should any time you buy something used) and check those clearances, set the manual camchain tensioner adjuster &c.

If Seafoam seems to be helping you probably have deposits in the carbs (can happen if the carbs aren't drained and it sits long enough for the fuel to evaporate from them) so you may need to clean the carbs.

BTW: Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your "new" bike is 4 decades old and the Previous Owners (even the one that customized it) may or may not have done the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).

I would also recommend adding turn signals that are actually legal (=4" of separation from any other light that is on when the signal is flashing) so that you don't provide some idiot in a car an excuse for saying he didn't know you were going to turn after he hits you.
 
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